| A dinner cruise on the Seine ... What's more typical for tourists visiting Paris. And what about the plethora of stereotypical boats cruising the Seine all year round ... But ‘voilà !’ now there’s ‘Le Calife’, a kind of ufo in the river’s gastronomical landscape. It’s an historical monument if only by it’s mechanical heart, an authentic vintage diesel twin cylinder Kromhouth 100L engine, dating from 1939 which still provides the craft’s propulsion during the cruise.
And what about the rest of the ship, a patchwork of materials goods around : the music room’s floorboards recovered from a Parisian Mansion, the tainted glass windows overlooking the bar dating from 1789, the 300 year old Budda throning in the music room, the portholes in the hold salvaged from an Italian cruise liner, the decorated individually decorated table tops. all meticulously arranged with taste for 18 years by the owner, Nicolas, who welcomes you aboard for an unforgettable experience: a dinner cruise on the Seine.
The boat is organized on different levels, the boarding terrace, the winter garden, a fully covered veranda with it’s retractable windows (during the summer), the bar which can accommodate guests for dinner and the music room in the hold, the perfect place to sip a glass of tea after the cruise and to listen to music Nicolas a musician during his time of leisure, has everything planned so that an evening may finish with a music concert or even turn into a live recording studio. Don’t leave without making a tour of the ship’s different rooms, they deserve it.
Boarding takes place before 20h30 from the Quai Malaquais, just beneath the ‘Pont des Arts’ bridge. Booking is advisable considering Le Calife’s reputation but you can always try your luck during a ballad along the river bank, you’ll always be well greeted.
On the program of festivities, two options to choose from, the Zephyr menu at 49€ ( starter-main course-dessert) and the Eiris menu at 69 € ( starter-main course- cheese-dessert). Aware of our duties we obviously tried both. Boarding starts before 20h30 from the Quai Malaquais quay, just below the Pont des Arts.
But foremost, it would be a pity not to open one’s appetite with an aperitif before starting the cruise. You have the choice between conventional classic alcoholic beverages or more subtle cocktails which will prepare you for the joys of the cruise, notably the Kromhouth at 8€ (does it remind you of anything ?) based on Champagne. And if you’re driving home the fruit juice based le ’Petit Calife’.
Another asset of the boat during the summer months is that you’ll be the only ones to fully enjoy the sights of the Seine banks during the whole cruise from the fully open terrace.
Our initial choice was the ‘Salade Périgourdine’ from the Zephyr menu, based on duck breast magret and gizzards, tomatoes and pine nuts and it’s sister dish the ‘Salade Gourmande’ with slices of Foie Gras and croutons from the Eiris menu. Dressing is left to ones discretion in the jar enthroned in the middle of the plate. Both salads are served in generous portions, the ‘Salade Gourmande’ accompanied by a glass of Sauvignon wine 6€. The produce is fresh and which is felt on the palate.
Back at the level of the famous Tour d’Argent, after the boat’s first turn we continued the cruise by the fish trilogy served in tinfoil with rice and crisp vegetables. No doubt about it, the Chef knows his business. The fish was eaten before you know it and one rediscovers the taste of the accompanying vegetables in the papillotte. A real treat !
And it’s the same for the epaule d’agneau confite, we wouldn’t dare show you but the plate, once finished was clean to the point of being ready for a new service. The lamb and the vegetables were cooked to perfection. The eat lusciously roasted without being dry, the vegetables divinely crunchy,and perfectly seasoned …Their wasn’t a single crumb leftover.
A small respite was granted whilst tasting the Zephyr menu with a platter of cheese, accompanied by a small fresh salad with walnuts and chunks of apricot. A hint of alertness enjoying all of this with a glass of Chateau La Grange Roquetaillade (Graves) 7 €. Do not be mislead, the boat’s wine cellar is perfectly selected by the owner himself.
The desserts were then served, once arriving at the statue of Liberty, for the boats second half-turn. The program, homemade Tarte Tatin and fresh fruit pirogue. Not shown in the picture, the pie has generous helpings of fruit with thick wedges of apple and thin pastry, just like at home, very fruity taste, sweet and subtly enhanced by its neighboring Strawberry with its mint leaf… Delicious.
As for the pirogue, it’s presentation speaks for itself set in half a pineapple, with ice cream adding a note of vanilla flavoured freshness ...
An immense privilege, we were invited to enjoy our desserts in the captain’s cockpit. Another feature of the boat’s multi story conception, the pilot’s cabin can move up or down depending on the clearance of the bridges the boat passes under. So we were able to finish the cruise from a unique viewpoint of the river and its environment. Without mentioning the captain and owner who communicated his passion for his boat, it’s cuisine and mechanics. One thing is for sure, we’ll never feel the same about a dinner cruise in the future…
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